από vasilis » 28 Ιουν 2006, 15:08
Γειά σου sadman,
πρώτα να σε ρωτήσω κάτι σημαντικό που ξέχασα.... το διαφορικό μπροστά έχει αλουμινένιο καβούκι και ουρά?
Αν ναι, τότε στην θέση σου μπορεί και να μην έβαζα ούτε LSD.
Έχε κατά νού οτι με ένα ARB (locker γεκινά) δεν θα αντέξει και πολύ το αλουμινένιο.
πρός ενημέρωσή σου πάντως διάβασε πολύ προσεκτικά τα παρακάτω για μπροστινό και πίσω locker:
Here's the type of
vehicle you absolutely need to get the different parts
from:
1996, 1997, or 1998 1.6L JAPAN-MADE Suzuki SideKick
(read: not CAMI built), with manual transmission.
Canadian Trackers and any SideKick with the 1.8 & 2.0
Liter motors will NOT work.
You can tell it's Jap made because the VIN # ALWAYS
starts with JS.
For the rear, take the entire 3rd member. It's the
same 12-bolt carrier that is in the GV, except it has
a ABS tone ring (ours is on the outer bearing
retainer), and the housing has some unneeded mounting
bosses. If the Kick doesn't have ABS, don't worry, as
the GV is 4-ch ABS and uses tone rings on the axles,
not the carrier.
For the front, grab the entire 3rd member (INCLUDING
bracket, nuts and bolts), the driver's side inner axle
shaft, the passenger side CV shaft, and the manual
hubs. Considering everything will be on the same donor
truck, getting in one shot would be the most
practical, and will get you your best price.
And now, without further ado....
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS - REAR
Please keep in mind. All these instructions are
assuming that you are somewhat mechanically inclined
and are familiar with different terms. Also, the use
of power tools and a lift makes things a whole lot
easier!
We'll start off with the Rear b/c not only will it
"pop your cherry", but it will make the most
difference b/c our vehicles are RWD.
Things you need BEFORE HAND:
The rear pig (duh!)
At least 2 quarts of 80W90 differential oil
Big ass sledgehammer
Razor Blade
RTV Sealer
Again, let me emphasize, having a lift and using air
power tools will definitely make the job much much
easier:
1. Drain the differential oil from the pumpkin.
2. Pull the wheels.
3. Using the 12MM wrench/socket, pull the 4 bolts on
the back of the brake mounting disc thing...this holds
the bearing cup to the axle.
4. Put one wheel back on, and thread like 3 lug nuts.
5. Take the big ass sledgehammer and stand under the
car. Hit the living [:censored:] out of the tire from the
inside out, until, like magic, the axle comes loose.
Note, this step is a pain in the ass, and you have to
hit the tire HARD from the inside (so imagine standing
underneath in the middle of the car slamming the
hammer against the inside part of the tire). Wouldn't
hurt to disconnect or loosen the brake lines so that
you have more room to slide out the axle. Once it
gives, slide it out 3-4" the most. Do this for both
sides.
6. With the axles out, unbolt the driveshaft from the
back.
7. Unbolt the 8-10 bolts on the housing to loosen and
remove the pumpkin.
8. Using the blade, clean off the sealer from the
surface where the pumpkin was removed from.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal! Don't
forget to add Differential oil back in and check that
the ABS Sensors didn't become loose!
Just remember to bleed the brakes if you loosened them
(might want to add some brake fluid). ALSO, REMEMBER
NOT TO ENGAGE YOU 4X4 IF YOU HAVEN'T INSTALLED YOUR
FRONT GEARS YET!!!!! You'll destroy your car if you
do!
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS - FRONT
The front will take more time, but is straight
forward.
Things you need BEFORE HAND:
The front differential (duh!) AND BRACKET, INCLUDING
ALL NUTS and BOLTS.
At least 2 quarts of 80W90 differential oil.
Razor Blade.
RTV Sealer.
CV Boot Clamps.
Passenger side inner axle seal - SGP Part #:
09286-64001-000 (this is for preventative maintenance.
They are prone to wear out and leak.)
The inner axle shaft.
The CV shaft.
and the manual hubs.
(the last 3 parts are to eliminate the [:censored:]-on-the-fly.
design. This reduces the rolling friction, thereby
making the wheels spin more freely b/c of no
resistance, hence more speed!!).
First, the Driver side:
1. Drain the front axle assembly. (Don't forget to
refill at the end!)
2. Disconnect the air line and diff breather.
3. Unbolt the driver's side CV at the flange.
4. Unbolt the diff mounts.
5. Remove the 4 bolts from the driveshaft and use a
bungie to hold the driveshaft up and out of the way
(do not pull it out of the t-case)
6. Now, I save some time by wiggling the assembly down
and pulling the driver's side CV stub out (it should
just pull out). This saves the step of removeing the
hubs and pulling the CV shafts out, but it's a little
more tricky, requiring an extra set of hands.
7. Once it's out and on the bench, use a dead blow (or
rubber mallet) and knock out the inner shaft by
hitting the flange.
8. Unbolt the diff and remove.
9. Clean the surface of the new diff and where it will
be installed (there will be gunk there from the
previous diff.)
10. Install the new Kick 5.13 pig and bolt down (Make
sure to use fresh RTV sealer.)
11. Install the Kick inner shaft, hitting with a dead
blow until fully seated. (If you compare the shafts,
you will notice the size difference, with the GV being
longer.)
Now, the Passenger side:
Compare the two CV stubs. Notice that the GV is
shorter than the Kick. The difference in the two side
lengths is because the airdiff moves the centerline
over about 1" towards the passenger side. The
passenger side is a floating stub, and the shorter it
is, the weaker it is. YOU ARE MAKING THE FRONT END
STRONGER!
What you want to do here is swap the Kick stub onto
the longer GV mid-shaft and outer CV.
1. Carefully cut the band around the CV boot.
2. Remove the GV's stub/ CV cup and replace it with
the stub/cup off the Kick, making a "hybrid" CV shaft.
Use the new clamps on the boot.
3. This would be a good time to replace the passenger
side inner axle seal. The Driver's side doesn't have
the same problem, as it has a bearing supported inner
shaft.
With that done, re-install everything back into your
GV. The front 3rd member has a center mount. This
> mounts to the GV crossmember. I find it easiest to
remove the two bolts from underneath the crossmember,
leaning the center mount on the diff, and using the
bracket from the sidekick differential. IMPORTANT: The
GV bracket will NOT work. Make sure you have the nuts
and bolts from the sidekick bracket. If not, Home
Depot has them. I think the size is 5/8" X 2.5"
(you'll need 2).
4. Now the hubs. This is REALLY tricky. Ready? a)
Remove bolts from existing lock-out caps on the hub.
b) Making sure the hub is in the "open" position,
install hubs with bolts and tighten to spec.
5. Finally, stick a golf tee into the rubber
differential breather hose so it can build pressure
and make the 4WD light come on. Also, plug the metal
air line. You can use a small piece of rubber hose
with another golf tee at the end.
Done!! If you want 4wd, just lock the hubs and put it
in 4wd. With hubs locked, you can shift on the fly,
just like the GV does now. And to prevent dirty
fingers, pick up a plastic hub turner.
Happy riding!
SJ 413 LWB "Agriκολας"